What Is Heartleaf in Skincare? Benefits and How to Use It
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Heartleaf is the common name for Houttuynia cordata, a plant with heart-shaped leaves that is one of Korean skincare's most popular calming ingredients. In skincare it's mainly used to soothe the look of redness, help skin feel calm and comfortable, and support a balanced, clear-looking complexion. It's gentle enough for most skin types and especially popular with sensitive, oily and acne-prone skin.
You'll find heartleaf in everything from toners to cleansers, pads and sunscreens. Here's what to know about this ingredient, and how to add it to your routine.
What is heartleaf (houttuynia cordata)?
Houttuynia cordata is a leafy plant native to parts of Asia, including Korea, where it's known as eoseongcho. It's named for its heart-shaped leaves, and the fresh plant has a distinctive smell that has earned it the nickname "fish mint". Don't worry, that smell doesn't carry through to the skincare products made with it.
Heartleaf has long been used in traditional practices in Asia, and in recent years it has become a star ingredient in K-beauty, thanks in large part to brands like Anua and Abib that build whole product lines around it.
What does heartleaf do for skin?
In skincare, heartleaf extract is mostly valued as a calming ingredient. Based on how brands describe it in the products we stock, heartleaf is used to:
- Calm the look of redness and irritation, which is why it's popular in toners for sensitive skin
- Help balance oily skin and support a clearer-looking complexion
- Provide antioxidant benefits
- Keep skin feeling comfortable when used alongside stronger ingredients like exfoliating acids
Heartleaf is a supporting ingredient rather than a treatment. If you have persistent redness, rosacea, eczema or acne that isn't improving, please see your GP or dermatologist.
Who should use heartleaf?
Heartleaf is a good fit if you have:
- Sensitive or easily flushed skin that needs gentle, calming products
- Oily or combination skin that feels unbalanced
- Acne-prone skin and want a soothing step alongside your actives
- Skin that feels stressed from heat, humidity, sun or wind, which is very common in Australian summers
As with any new product, patch test first, especially if you have very reactive skin or plant allergies.
How to use heartleaf in your routine
1. Heartleaf toner (the easiest place to start)
The Anua Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner is the product that made heartleaf famous. It contains 77% houttuynia cordata extract and panthenol, has a sub-acidic pH of about 5.5 to 6, and has a lightweight, watery texture that absorbs quickly. It's designed to calm redness and irritation and support a healthy oil-water balance, and it suits all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. Pat it on with your palms after cleansing, and layer it two to three times if your skin feels tight.
Want the full verdict? Read our Anua Heartleaf 77 Toner review.
2. Heartleaf cleansers
Heartleaf works nicely in a double cleanse. Start with the Anua Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil, a lightweight, non-comedogenic oil with 10,000ppm heartleaf extract that dissolves makeup, sunscreen and excess sebum. Our Anua cleansing oil guide compares the options.
Follow with a water-based cleanser. Anua Heartleaf Quercetinol Pore Deep Cleansing Foam combines heartleaf, quercetinol and centella asiatica with eight types of hyaluronic acid and Anti-Sebum P. It's designed to remove oil, impurities and dead skin build-up while keeping skin hydrated, and it suits oily, combination and acne-prone skin.
For acne-prone skin, Abib Acne Foam Cleanser Heartleaf Foam is a mild, sub-acidic cleanser that pairs heartleaf extract with salicylic acid and centella asiatica extract.
3. Heartleaf pads
Toner pads are a quick way to add heartleaf on busy mornings. Abib Heartleaf Spot Pad Calming Touch contains 40,000ppm heartleaf extract and is hypoallergenic tested. Each pad has two sides: a textured gauze side to smooth rough skin and a plain side to calm sensitive skin.
4. Heartleaf moisturisers
To finish your routine, Anua Heartleaf 70 Intense Calming Cream combines 70% heartleaf with ceramides in a richer cream made for dry and sensitive skin. If you prefer something lighter, the Anua Heartleaf 70 Daily Lotion is a more fluid option.
A simple heartleaf routine
Morning
- Gentle cleanser (or a water rinse)
- Heartleaf toner or pad
- Serum, if you use one
- Moisturiser
- SPF50+ sunscreen
Evening
- Heartleaf cleansing oil
- Heartleaf foam cleanser
- Heartleaf toner
- Treatment serum (such as a retinoid or exfoliant, on the nights you use one)
- Heartleaf cream
Can you combine heartleaf with other ingredients?
Yes. Heartleaf is a gentle, supporting ingredient, so it pairs well with most of your routine. It's often used alongside:
- Centella asiatica (cica), another calming favourite. See our article on whether cica is safe for daily use on sensitive skin.
- Exfoliating acids and retinoids, where a heartleaf toner or cream can help your routine feel more comfortable
- Niacinamide and hyaluronic acid for balance and hydration
Explore the full range in our Anua collection and our skincare for sensitive skin.
Heartleaf skincare FAQ
Is heartleaf the same as centella asiatica?
No. Heartleaf is Houttuynia cordata, while centella asiatica (cica) is a different plant. Both are popular calming ingredients in Korean skincare, and you'll often find them used together.
Is heartleaf good for acne-prone skin?
Many heartleaf products, including Anua's toner and foam cleanser, are made with acne-prone skin in mind and are designed to calm the skin and support a clearer-looking complexion. For persistent or painful acne, see your GP or dermatologist.
Can I use heartleaf every day?
Yes. Heartleaf toners, cleansers and creams are designed for daily use, morning and night. Patch test first if your skin is very sensitive.
Does heartleaf skincare smell?
The fresh plant has a distinctive smell, but heartleaf skincare products generally don't smell like it. Some, like the Anua Quercetinol foam, have a light fresh scent such as eucalyptus.